GFCI outlet? Press TEST once a month.
Those two buttons between the slots are not decoration. A ground-fault circuit interrupter can stop working without any obvious sign, so the agencies that write the safety guidance say to test it on a schedule.
Our take: once a month, plug a lamp into the GFCI, press TEST until the light goes out, then press RESET until it comes back on. Do it after a power failure too. If either step fails, replace the GFCI or call a qualified electrician. Don’t keep using an outlet that failed the button test. [S1] [S2] [S4] [S7]
Lamp on, TEST off, RESET on
What a GFCI is watching for
CPSC says a ground fault is an unintentional path between a power source and a grounded surface, often when equipment is damaged or defective so live parts are no longer protected from unintended contact. If your body becomes that path, you could be burned, severely shocked or electrocuted. A GFCI constantly monitors current on the circuit; if the current going out differs from the current returning by as little as about 0.006 amperes, it interrupts power faster than a blink. CPSC adds that GFCIs are designed to operate before the electricity can affect your heartbeat, and that a GFCI works even on older two-slot receptacles. [S1]
ESFI puts the same idea in plain language: GFCIs shut off power when they detect a ground fault or leakage current, which can happen if equipment gets wet. Its how-to page says GFCIs come as receptacles and as circuit breakers. CPSC’s fact sheet names three common forms: a receptacle that replaces a standard duplex outlet and can also protect outlets farther “downstream,” a circuit breaker that protects a whole branch, and a portable plug-in or cord-style unit for spots without built-in protection. [S3] [S1]
Press TEST once a month
CPSC’s fact sheet says to test every GFCI after installation, at least once a month, after a power failure, and according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Its home electrical checklist repeats the monthly schedule and notes that GFCIs can fail without showing any sign of failure, so regular testing may save your life. ESFI’s test sheet says GFCIs can be damaged by voltage surges from lightning, utility switching or normal use, and that a malfunctioning unit does not provide shock protection. NFPA’s electrical specialist blog recommends testing monthly at a minimum and following the maker’s instructions; it also says that when you are plugging directly into a GFCI, testing before each use takes little effort. CPSC’s home-wiring hazards guide also says to test the GFCI once a month: press TEST so it indicates open or off and disconnects the protected circuit, then press RESET to restore power. One receptacle maker’s how-to page says to test monthly. [S1] [S2] [S4] [S6] [S8] [S7]
A lamp-or-nightlight test that matches the agencies
If you do not have the maker’s instructions, CPSC’s procedure is: plug a lamp into the outlet and turn it on; press TEST. Did the light go out? If not, the GFCI is not working or was not installed correctly, and you should contact a qualified electrician to correct the wiring and/or replace the defective GFCI; press RESET. Did the light come back on? If not, replace the GFCI. One maker’s consumer how-to matches that order: plug in a lamp or radio and turn it on, push TEST so power cuts off, then push RESET to restore power; if it fails, replace it immediately with a licensed electrician. [S1] [S7]
ESFI’s dedicated test sheet starts one step earlier: push RESET first, plug in a nightlight, confirm it is on, press TEST so it turns off, push RESET again so it turns back on, and treat a light that did not turn off as a failure. Its newer how-to page uses the same idea for outlets and breakers, and for a breaker it says the handle should move to the off or center position on TEST. CPSC’s checklist gives a breaker-only procedure: push TEST so the handle goes to the middle or off position, then move the handle to off and back to on to reset; a defective breaker should be replaced by a qualified electrician. [S4] [S3] [S2]
Enter the number of days to compare it with the monthly test interval.
The day check only compares your number with the published monthly interval. It cannot see your outlet, and nothing you type is saved or sent.
Where the sources pull in different directions. Step order: CPSC and one maker start with a lamp already on, then TEST, then RESET. ESFI starts with RESET, then the nightlight, then TEST, then RESET again. Both end in the same proof: the light must go off on TEST and come back on with RESET. So we use CPSC’s lamp-first wording as the default and treat ESFI’s opening RESET as a useful extra if the device was already tripped. Who installs a replacement: ESFI’s Q&A says GFCIs should only be installed by a licensed, qualified electrician, while CPSC says receptacle-type units may be installed by consumers with adequate knowledge who follow the device instructions, and to call a qualified electrician when in doubt. One maker’s how-to says failed receptacles should be replaced by a licensed electrician. We’d leave hardwired replacement to a qualified electrician. [S1] [S4] [S5] [S7]
Where the code expects protection
CPSC says the circuits that require GFCI protection are designated by the National Electrical Code (NEC), which typically applies to new construction and major renovations, and that coverage has expanded over the years. Its fact sheet lists receptacle requirements with first-effective years: outdoors (1973), bathrooms (1975), garages (1978), kitchens (1987), crawl spaces and unfinished basements (1990), wet bar sinks (1993), laundry and utility sinks (2005), plus underwater pool lighting since 1968. CPSC also recommends portable GFCI protection for electrically powered garden equipment and for electric tools used in and around the house. [S1]
ESFI’s how-to page lists bathrooms, garages, residential kitchens, basements, crawlspaces at or below grade, sinks (receptacles within 6 feet), laundry areas, spas and hot tubs (receptacles within 6 feet), outdoor receptacles, hardwired outlets such as air-conditioning units and heat pumps, indoor damp or wet areas, and commercial kitchens. NFPA’s 2021 blog cites the 2020 NEC section 210.8(A) list for bathrooms, garages, outdoors, crawlspaces, basements, kitchens, sink areas, boathouses, bathtub/shower stalls and laundry areas, and notes that a standard receptacle can be GFCI-protected from another GFCI elsewhere on the circuit, including a GFCI in another room or a GFCI breaker in the panel. [S3] [S6]
Choose a location to highlight its guidance.
NEC coverage for bathroom receptacles dates to 1975 on CPSC’s timeline, and bathrooms sit on every modern location list from ESFI and NFPA. Look for TEST and RESET on the vanity outlet itself; if a standard outlet is dead, NFPA’s tip is to check a nearby GFCI that may be protecting it. [S1] [S3] [S6]
Kitchen receptacles appear on CPSC’s list from 1987, and ESFI calls out residential kitchens plus receptacles within 6 feet of sinks. CPSC’s checklist also flags countertop appliances near a sink: if you cannot move them, plug them into GFCI-protected outlets. [S1] [S3] [S2]
Outdoor receptacles have been on CPSC’s NEC timeline since 1973. CPSC’s checklist says outdoor outlets should be GFCI-protected, use weatherproof covers, and that you can plug in a portable GFCI when an outdoor outlet is not protected. One outdoor GFCI can feed other outdoor receptacles farther down the run, per NFPA’s tip. [S1] [S2] [S6]
CPSC dates garage receptacles to 1978 and crawl spaces / unfinished basements to 1990. ESFI lists garages, basements and at-or-below-grade crawlspaces. These rooms often hide the GFCI that protects a tool bench or outdoor circuit, so if a plain outlet is dead, hunt for a GFCI faceplate or a GFCI breaker. [S1] [S3] [S6]
Laundry and utility sinks appear on CPSC’s timeline from 2005, and laundry areas are on ESFI’s and NFPA’s lists. Test the GFCI that serves the laundry receptacles monthly, the same as any other. [S1] [S3] [S6]
CPSC says a GFCI circuit breaker protects the wiring and every outlet, lighting fixture or appliance on its branch, and guards against both ground fault and overload. To test monthly: push TEST so the handle goes to the middle or off position, then move it fully off and back on to reset. Replace a defective breaker through a qualified electrician. [S1] [S2]
These branches summarize agency and safety-foundation guidance. They are not an electrical inspection of your house.
If TEST or RESET does not do its job
CPSC’s fact sheet is blunt: if the light does not go out on TEST, the GFCI is not working or was not correctly installed, so contact a qualified electrician to correct the wiring and/or replace it; if the light does not return on RESET, replace the GFCI. ESFI says to have a licensed, qualified electrician check the unit and correct the problem. One maker adds that some designs include a reset lockout that will not restore power if the device cannot respond to a ground fault, and that failed receptacles should be replaced immediately by a licensed electrician. [S1] [S4] [S7]
Before you call it done
Before the next monthly check
My hair dryer died but the breaker looks fine. Now what?
NFPA’s blog says to look for a tripped GFCI before you replace the appliance. Check the receptacle itself, a nearby GFCI, a GFCI in another room that may feed this one, and any GFCI breaker in the panel. Unplug devices, then try RESET. If you are uncomfortable at any step, call a licensed electrician. [S6]
Does a dead outlet always mean the GFCI at that box failed?
Not always. NFPA explains that electricians may protect a required location with a GFCI somewhere else on the circuit: another bathroom, an outdoor GFCI that feeds the backyard, or a GFCI breaker. Find and reset that upstream device, then still run the monthly lamp test on every GFCI faceplate you can reach. [S6]
Do I still need the monthly button test if the outlet “self-tests”?
Agency monthly guidance still stands in the sources cited here. CPSC says to follow the manufacturer’s instructions and to test at least monthly; one maker’s consumer how-to still says to test monthly even while describing a reset-lockout feature on its own line. When the maker’s sheet and the agency sheet both say monthly, we keep the monthly lamp test. [S1] [S7]
Can I install a GFCI receptacle myself?
Sources disagree on the DIY line. CPSC says receptacle-type GFCIs may be installed by consumers with adequate knowledge who follow proper wiring practices and the device instructions, and to contact a qualified electrician when in doubt, and not to attempt it if you are unsure. ESFI’s Q&A says installation should only be done by a licensed, qualified electrician, while portable plug-in GFCIs need no tools. This guide does not teach wiring; for a hardwired swap, we’d hire a qualified electrician. [S1] [S5]
Is a GFCI the same as a surge protector or an AFCI?
No. CPSC describes GFCIs as ground-fault / shock-protection devices. Its checklist treats arc-fault circuit interrupters (AFCIs) separately: AFCIs look for dangerous arcing that can start fires, and it says to test those monthly too, but they are not a substitute for GFCI protection near water. [S1] [S2]
Do any of these sources pick a brand?
No. CPSC and ESFI describe types and locations, not a shopping ranking. One maker’s how-to is cited only for its monthly TEST/RESET wording and lockout note. We don’t rank outlets here either.
Sources
CPSC, ESFI, NFPA and one receptacle maker’s how-to page, checked October 15, 2026, and rechecked October 21, 2026. Recommendations here are editorial interpretation of that guidance; no hands-on results are claimed.
- S1 · CPSC: GFCI Fact Sheet (Pub. 099)
- S2 · CPSC: Home Electrical Safety Checklist (Pub. 513)
- S3 · ESFI: How to Use GFCIs
- S4 · ESFI: How to Test a GFCI (PDF)
- S5 · ESFI: Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCI)
- S6 · NFPA: 5 ways to check GFCIs (Aug. 10, 2021)
- S7 · Leviton: How to test a Leviton GFCI (maker how-to)
- S8 · CPSC: Guide to Home Wiring Hazards (Pub. 518)