Ladder safety for gutters and holiday lights: 1 foot out for every 4 up, 3 feet past the roof edge

The 4-to-1 rule: 1 foot out for every 4 feet up

An extension or straight ladder that leans against the house needs the right angle. Washington State L&I says most ladder falls happen when the ladder tips over, and NIOSH says that in about 40% of ladder injuries the base slid out because the angle was wrong. [S4] [S6]

OSHA puts the rule simply: set the base a quarter of the ladder’s working length out from the wall. Washington State L&I says the same thing as 1 foot out for every 4 feet up. That works out to about 75 degrees, the angle NIOSH gives. The American Ladder Institute says as close to 75½ degrees as you can get. [S1] [S4] [S5] [S6]

• Both feet level and firm. OSHA says use a ladder only on a stable, level surface unless it’s secured, and never on boxes, barrels or other unstable bases to gain height. [S1] [S2]
• Both rails supported at the top. OSHA and the American Ladder Institute say the top should rest evenly on both side rails, unless the ladder has a single-support attachment. [S2] [S5]
• Locks engaged. Make sure every rung lock on an extension ladder is set, and adjust the sections from the ground, never with anyone on the ladder. [S1] [S5]
• Keep traffic away. In a driveway, walkway or doorway, secure the ladder or block the area off, OSHA says; cones or caution tape count. [S1] [S2]

Distance check

Enter how high the ladder will rest against the house, such as the gutter line, to see how far out the feet go.

It’s simple division: a 12-foot gutter line means feet about 3 feet out. If you’ll step onto the roof, the ladder also needs about 3 more feet above the edge. [S1] [S6]

Getting onto the roof: 3 feet past the edge

If you’ll step off the ladder onto the roof, OSHA requires the side rails to reach at least 3 feet above the landing. Washington State L&I calls it the 3-foot rule and adds that the ladder must be secured from slipping. [S1] [S2] [S6]

The American Ladder Institute says to tie the ladder to the upper level before getting on or off. It also calls a ladder too long if it reaches more than 3 feet past its top support, so aim for about 3. [S5]

Working at the gutter without going onto the roof? The 3-foot rule is about stepping off. The limit that matters then is how high you stand: OSHA and the American Ladder Institute say not to stand on the top three rungs of an extension ladder. [S1] [S5]

Climbing and reaching

• Three points of contact. Two hands and a foot, or two feet and a hand, every time you climb. OSHA says to face the ladder going up and down. [S1] [S2] [S6]
• Hands free. Don’t carry anything that could throw off your balance. Washington State L&I suggests a tool belt, a backpack, or pulling items up after you climb. [S2] [S5] [S6]
• Belt buckle between the rails. Keep your body near the middle and stay centered, OSHA and Washington State L&I say. NIOSH lists overreaching among the main causes of ladder injuries. [S1] [S4] [S6]
• Climb down to move it. OSHA says never move, shift or extend a ladder with someone on it. Gutter work means many short moves; each one starts on the ground. [S1] [S2] [S5]
• Watch the surface. Rungs and feet should be free of slippery material. The American Ladder Institute says no ice, snow or slippery ground unless something keeps the feet from slipping. [S1] [S2] [S5]

Stepladders for indoor decorating

A stepladder is the usual tool for a tree topper, a high shelf or porch lights.

• Open it fully. Spreaders locked, every time. Don’t lean a folded stepladder against a wall as a straight ladder. [S1] [S2] [S3]
• Not the top. OSHA says never use the top cap or the top step as a step. The American Ladder Institute says the highest standing level is marked on the label. [S2] [S3] [S5]
• Not the back. The rear braces aren’t for climbing. [S3] [S5]
• Level floor. Set it on a stable, level, non-slippery surface. [S1] [S3]

Power lines: look up first

OSHA says to look for overhead power lines before you even pick up a ladder, and not to use a metal ladder near power lines or live electrical equipment. The American Ladder Institute says to reject a metal ladder near electricity because aluminum conducts. [S1] [S3] [S5]

Washington State L&I gives a distance: never use a ladder or any other tool within 10 feet of power lines. It says to use a fiberglass ladder if there’s any chance of contact with electricity. [S6]

Plugging the lights in afterward? Our GFCI outlet test guide covers the monthly button check.

Check the duty rating

Ladders are labeled with a duty rating. It’s the most weight the ladder is built to carry, and that means you plus your clothes, your tools and anything resting on the ladder. A longer ladder doesn’t carry more. [S3] [S5]

OSHA lists Type III as household duty, 200 pounds. If you plus a bucket of gutter muck and a tool belt come to more than the sticker, the ladder is overloaded. OSHA counts the total of the person and everything carried. [S2] [S3] [S5]

Check the ladder before you climb

• Look it over. OSHA says inspect before every use, and the American Ladder Institute says when you buy it too. Look for anything broken, bent, loose or missing, and for slippery material on the rungs and feet. [S1] [S2] [S5]
• Read the labels. OSHA says read and follow every label on the ladder. [S1]
• Damaged? Out of service. Tag it so nobody uses it until it’s repaired or thrown out. The American Ladder Institute says a ladder with bent or broken side rails should be destroyed. [S1] [S2] [S5]

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